When we discover Native American style flutes and feel the desire to play them, questions arise about which flute to choose when ordering. This article aims to clarify some doubts based on our perception of the most important criteria for choosing, as well as clarifying recurring questions regarding native flutes in general:

Which native flute is recommended for beginners?

Regarding Native American style flutes, in principle all are suitable for beginners as long as the player’s body adapts well to the flute. The lower-pitched flutes with greater length and distance between holes require more stretching and more breath control to blow and fill the air column to produce sound; for this reason alone, we recommend smaller flutes for beginners. Many people simply cannot play large flutes due to these anatomical issues not adapting, and they end up abandoning the instrument, but with training it is possible to develop the best posture for arms, hands, and fingers for each type of flute. The body needs some time to adapt. If you have short arms, thin and short fingers, it may be better to start with small flutes such as the River Cane C Alto, B, A G#, or G native flutes.

In addition to considerations from an anatomical perspective, we also need to consider which vocal range of the flute appeals to you. High, medium, and low voices. All Native American style flutes have a reasonable volume; large flutes (B Bass, A Bass, G Bass) naturally have lower volume and a deeper, fuller voice, suitable for playing in environments with little noise and inducing meditative states of deep relaxation, immediately lowering brain frequencies.

Flutes with a medium voice have excellent volume and a more expansive sound, suitable for playing in larger environments. These medium flutes such as B, A, G#, G, F#, and F are also recommended for beginners, with B being the smallest flute and F the largest flute.

In the context of the collective musical memory related to the sound of the native flute, it is important to highlight that the F# tuning, as the most played and consecrated medium voice by native musician Carlos Nakai, has become the standard native flute key, precisely because it is the key we hear most. Among the high, medium, and low voices, the F# tuning would be the official tuning of the Native American flute, so much so that the Nakai tablature uses the key signature for F#.

Still in the medium voice range, we have the larger flutes, which in order from smallest to largest are: F, E, D, and C. These three, even though they are considered medium range, are larger flutes with more robust voices close to the low range. They are not recommended for beginners due to anatomical issues. As for tonality, these flutes are powerful and act energetically on the regions of the heart (F), solar plexus (E), (D), and (C).

Finally, regarding native flute tunings, we have the high voices, which in order from smallest to largest are: E Alto, D Alto, C Alto. These are much smaller flutes, suitable for playing outdoors, in environments with lots of noise (waterfalls, beaches, etc.), they are easier to transport and, because they have a shorter length and smaller distance between holes, they are suitable for children, teenagers, music initiation, and adults in general. I often think that sometimes the high-pitched flutes are important and have their application in energetic and therapeutic alignment, and they can be flutes for a first contact, being complementary to the larger flutes.

Listen to the difference between NAF tunings from C alto to C medium!

The native flutes we produce are ordered by model (series), and each model has different customization options including tuning, mouthpiece type, and totem. We value acoustic quality and tuning for all models, from the simplest to the most elaborate, without distinction. The River Cane series is the most popular, produced from C Alto to C Medium. In this series, there is no option to choose the mouthpiece, totem, or 6 holes; this is our purest series, recommended for first contact and delivered in the shortest time.

If you want a more elaborate flute with more customization options such as totem, wood mouthpiece, 6 holes, and distinctive design, we have the series: Beija-flor, Black, Clássica, Natural, Roots, Totem, and Tribal. In these series, we offer tunings from A to C Medium.

If you are looking for a low-sounding flute, then you need to know the Ground series. The Ground Series consists of Native American style flutes in Bass tuning. These are large flutes that require adaptation training, so we do not recommend them as a first flute.

If you are looking for a double native flute, we have the Dupla Series; in this model, the double River Cane A and G flutes are medium range and recommended for first contact.

In conclusion, regarding which native flute is recommended for beginners, we need to take into account physical factors and limitations, then check which flute key and tuning you want to experience, and finally choose the materials that define the aesthetic form of the flute such as totem, mouthpiece, painting, and design.

Listen to the sound of the NAF Bass:

What is the difference between 432, 440, 442hz, or 444hz tuning?

Choosing the tuning of a flute is a common question, especially for those who are just starting. The decision may seem technical, but let’s explain in a practical way what each frequency means and how to choose the ideal one for you.

The Basics: What is Tuning?

It all starts with the note A (La). By international convention, this note was defined as the reference point for tuning all instruments. The “tuning” is, in fact, the frequency of this note, measured in Hertz (Hz) — or cycles per second.

When we say a flute is tuned to 440 Hz, it means its A note vibrates 440 times per second. From this reference, all other notes of the scale (C, D, E, etc.) are calculated proportionally, using a system called the “equal-tempered scale.”

Key point: If you change the frequency of the A note, all other notes of the instrument change along with it to maintain harmony.

How Does Tuning Apply to a Flute?

Unlike a guitar, which can be tuned at any time, a flute has its tuning defined during its construction. The length of the tube, the position, and the diameter of the holes determine the musical scale of the instrument in a fixed way. Therefore, the tuning (432 Hz, 440 Hz, etc.) is a choice you make at the time of purchasing the flute.

The Most Common Tunings and Their Characteristics

Now, let’s understand what each one means in practice.

A = 440 Hz: The Universal Standard

  • What is it? It is the standard concert tuning, used by the vast majority of musicians and orchestras in the world today. Practically all the music you hear on the radio, Spotify, or YouTube is recorded at 440 Hz.
  • Sound: Considered the standard sound, balanced, and bright.
  • When to choose? Choose this tuning if you intend to play with other musicians, accompany recorded music, or participate in groups and lessons. It is the safest and most versatile choice.

A = 432 Hz: The Therapeutic Tuning

  • What is it? A slightly lower tuning than the standard. It gained popularity for being associated with a more natural and relaxing sound. Many studies and theories (though debated) suggest that this frequency is in greater harmony with the patterns of nature.
  • Sound: Perceived as more velvety, introspective, and calming. The difference is subtle but noticeable, especially in a silent environment.
  • When to choose? Ideal for those seeking the flute as a tool for meditation, yoga, music therapy, or simply for playing alone, in an intuitive and relaxing way.

A = 442 Hz (or 444 Hz): The Bright Tuning

  • What is it? A slightly higher tuning than the standard. It is often preferred by some symphony orchestras, especially in Europe, as they believe it produces a brighter sound with greater projection, standing out in large concert halls.
  • Sound: Sharper, more lively, and penetrating.
    When to choose? It is generally a choice of professional musicians who play in specific contexts, such as orchestras that adopt this standard. For general use, it is not the most recommended.

Summary Table: Which One to Choose?

Tuning Main Characteristic Application
440 HzStandard, universal, versatilePlaying in groups, accompanying music, lessons.
432 HzTherapeutic, relaxing, introspectiveMeditation, yoga, therapy, playing alone.
442 HzBrightIn specific contexts. An alternative to maintain the 440Hz standard in low-temperature environments.
444 HzMaximum projectionIn specific contexts, proportional to the Solfeggio scale (C5 = 528 Hz) and healing frequencies. An alternative to maintain the 440Hz standard in very low-temperature environments.

All tunings can sound therapeutic depending on how the sound is applied to the context. The choice of tuning depends entirely on your goal. Learn more here!

  • If you want to interact musically with the world, 440 Hz is the way.
  • If your search is for a personal, introspective, and therapeutic connection, the 432 Hz tuning can offer a unique and special experience.

For an untrained ear, the difference may seem minimal when listening to the flute alone. However, the intention behind your music is what matters most. The quality of the melody and the emotion you convey are not limited to this aspect, but considering it ensures that the instrument will be perfectly aligned with your purpose.

What is the difference between a native flute with a wood or bamboo body?

Basically, our ears do not perceive the difference. Even if the body were made of metal or plastic, the characteristic of the timbre would hardly be noticed. What we can speculate about is the durability and stability of the material to sustain the tuning.

The quality of the sound in a native flute is directly related to the precision of the construction and assembly of the nest (the air passage table through the flue), the whistle, the relationship between the length and the internal diameter of the sound chamber, the size of the holes, and other construction details. The region of the flue and the whistle is where the spirit of the flute resides.

We seek to combine the best of materials in the construction of the flute; we build the nest with wood when necessary and the totem or block that contains the flue, while for the body of the flute, we prefer bamboo for several factors that you can see here. With wood, we can mold the thickness and angle of the whistle even when the bamboo body is thinner, ensuring greater mechanical stability due to the denser fibers of the wood. Bamboo has all the qualities and characteristics necessary for creating flutes; it is light, resistant, hollow, round, versatile, economical, and sustainable, having been adopted by all peoples since antiquity who had access to bamboo. But bamboo has its challenges in flute construction, as there are several species spread around the world, and not always one type of bamboo suits one type of flute. So, to make a flute, we depend 100% on access to the ideal types of bamboo for each type of flute, and often the bamboo we have in hand will define what type of flute and construction process will be used, in addition to the length for tuning. Each bamboo stalk has its own characteristics of thickness, diameter, and curvature, making the process much more artisanal and selective, compared to the agricultural process of cultivation, harvesting, etc., not to mention that often there is no access to the ideal bamboo in the region. So, it becomes an even more refined art that pleases us greatly, in addition to each flute having unique anatomical characteristics. Perhaps due to the lack of access to bamboo and/or the need for greater control and precision in the construction process, many artisans currently build their flutes in wood. From our experience, the advantage of the wood body is due to its mechanical stability, which provides greater precision and control of the flute’s tuning, as the wood fibers move less frequently in relation to temperature and humidity, and because they have thicker walls, they tend to be more resistant to impacts. This argument makes many people disregard bamboo flutes, imagining they are fragile and therefore will have little durability. We have bamboo flutes over 7 years old in perfect condition; everything depends on care and preservation. We consider bamboo flutes to be living instruments and therefore they are our priority choice, especially since wooden flutes require many machine interventions and a lot of wood waste. But we do not rule out the possibility of building them. As for the stability of the tuning, bamboo fibers are more flexible to the contraction and expansion movement caused by temperature and humidity than wood; for this reason, we usually warm the flute before playing it. This warming can come from the breath itself and the hands, and thus the flute quickly adjusts its tuning. In India, concert flutes are made of bamboo; this peculiar characteristic of bamboo does not disqualify the instrument; on the contrary, it increases the possibilities of play.

Wood mouthpiece or natural bamboo mouthpiece?

The choice between a wood mouthpiece or a natural bamboo mouthpiece does not influence the quality of the sound because the sound quality is related to the whistle of the flute and the block or totem. The air chamber, which is where we blow, serves only to conduct the air under the block or totem and direct that air to the whistle. The wood mouthpiece has the advantage of providing a distinctive, more aesthetic finish and is also more ergonomic because you only need to lightly touch your mouth to the mouthpiece, without needing to open your mouth, just enough to cover the small area of the mouthpiece and blow. The bamboo flute with the natural open mouthpiece does not have the aesthetics of the wood mouthpiece, but the sound quality is the same. The advantage of the open mouthpiece is that we can dry it easily after playing, and in the long run, this makes a difference. This is the great advantage over the wood mouthpiece because with the wood mouthpiece, the opening is small and it is very difficult to insert any artifact to clean it. With the open bamboo mouthpiece, it is possible to perform this maintenance by drying with a cloth and also removing dust with a brush. So basically, that is the difference between the wood mouthpiece and the natural bamboo mouthpiece; it does not influence the sound quality. While the wood mouthpiece has an aesthetic and ergonomic quality, the natural bamboo mouthpiece has a quality of instrument maintenance.

Which flute should I choose, 5 or 6 holes?

To introduce the Native American flute into the Western musical culture a few decades ago, it became necessary to standardize its musical scale. The chosen scale was the minor pentatonic, and to produce it, we only need 5 holes; that is all we need to play a native flute with countless possibilities. A few years later, some artisans began producing the flute with 6 holes, adding a “wildcard” hole to expand the possibilities of making other pentatonic scale modes. The pitch of this new hole corresponds to the major 6th, which is a note outside the scale and dissonant with it; however, with cross fingering, we can play the minor 6th and from that point modulate a second scale. Our opinion is to maintain the simplicity of the original scale with 5 holes, to avoid confusing mainly beginners who, without knowing, end up considering this hole when moving through the scale, feeling an immediate strangeness because the major 6th will create a dissonance in the body of the scale, which is originally minor; for this reason, it is a hole that remains closed most of the time we play the flute. If in any case it will be necessary to use cross fingerings to take advantage of the resource of this hole, then know that on the 5-hole flute, we can play all the notes of the 6-hole flute by learning the cross fingerings of the 5-hole flute. In any case, 6-hole flutes have gained ground, and currently most luthiers produce with 6 holes. Therefore, we offer this option in some models.

What is the alignment of the last hole?

The choice of the alignment of the last hole will depend on the size of the flute and which hand is used below to close the last three holes. The vast majority of people play with the right hand below; in this case, for large flutes, we recommend that the last hole be aligned to the right, as a way to facilitate the fingering of this last note on the flute without causing discomfort to the ring finger of the right hand, making it easier to close the holes. But if you use your left hand at the foot of the flute (lower part), then the last hole should be offset to the left.

For small flutes such as E Alto, D Alto, C Alto, B, and A, there is no need for the last hole to be to the right; in this case, the standard center alignment can be used, as since the flute has a small size, there will be no difficulties in covering the holes of the flute. Remember that to know the approximate length of each flute according to the tuning, simply consult our Measurement Table. For medium flutes such as G#, G, F#, F, E, D, and C, for people who have small arms, hands, or fingers, we recommend requesting the last hole to the right or left, thus ensuring that there will be no difficulties in fingering the flute. For bass flutes of great length and 6 holes, we offset the holes for the ring finger of the left hand and the ring finger of the right hand, so it is very important to know in advance which hand is the upper one (used near the face) and which hand is the lower one (used near the foot of the flute).

Is the flute ready or will it be produced?

Our flutes are made to order. We want to make your flute! When you express the intention to acquire one of our flutes, your energy will directly influence the flute that will be born uniquely for you or for the person who will receive it. We offer many options and models, which makes it impossible to have all tunings and models available for immediate shipping, as our creation is 100% handmade; all flutes are tested one by one, and you can also make customizations.

Now that you know a little more about our flutes, check out our models